The Living Craft of Devon Thatch

In Devon, a thatched roof is not merely a covering; it is a living, breathing part of the landscape. The county’s damp, mild climate and its rich history of longstraw and combed wheat reed have shaped a distinct tradition of thatching. When a roof begins to fail — perhaps after a gale off Dartmoor or a long, wet winter — repairing it is a job for skilled hands. The work is practical, unhurried, and deeply satisfying to watch. A thatcher repairing a Devon roof is part surgeon, part sculptor, and part weather forecaster.

The first step is always diagnosis. Is the problem localised, or has the whole coat “gone”? A ridge might need re-laying, or a patch of straw might have slipped. In Devon, most roofs use combed wheat reed — a straw that is threshed and combed, giving a soft, rounded finish. Water reed, often called Norfolk reed, is sometimes used on steeper pitches. Each material demands a different touch. Repairing with the wrong straw is like mending a tweed jacket with silk.

Choosing and Preparing Straw

Good repair begins long before the ladder goes up. Straw must be selected for length, straightness, and cleanliness. Combed wheat reed from local fields is prized because it bends without breaking. The thatcher will sort through bundles, discarding short or brittle stalks. The straw is then dampened — not soaked — to make it pliable. This is a craft of feel: too dry and it cracks; too wet and it rots.

• Combed wheat reed: soft, flexible, ideal for Devon’s rounded dormers and sweeping eaves.
• Water reed: harder, longer-lasting, but needs a steeper pitch and a different fixing technique.
• Straw for ridges: usually the best combed wheat, cut longer and laid thickly to shed water.

The thatcher also prepares spars — hazel or willow rods split and twisted into staples. These hold the straw in place. In Devon, spars are often made from coppiced hazel, cut in winter when the sap is down. A good spar is supple, about a foot long, and pointed at both ends.

Stripping Back and Re-dressing

Repair rarely means tearing off the whole roof. The thatcher strips back only the damaged sections, working from the ridge downwards. Old straw is removed with a leggett — a flat wooden tool — and a sway, a long-handled hook. Underneath, the fixings are checked. Rotten spars are pulled out; broken battens are replaced.

New straw is then laid in courses, each overlapping the one below. The thatcher works in small bundles, or yealms, tucking them tightly against the previous layer. A broach — a pointed tool — is used to push the straw into place. The surface is then dressed down with a handbeater, a wooden paddle that taps the straw into a smooth, even coat. This is rhythmic, almost musical work: tap, tuck, tap, tuck. The aim is a surface that sheds water like a duck’s back.

The Ridge: A Finishing Art

The ridge is the roof’s crown, and in Devon it receives the most attention. A neat ridge is the mark of a true craftsman. There are two main styles: the block ridge, where straw is folded over the apex in thick blocks, and the cut ridge, where the straw is trimmed to a sharp, flowing line. Block ridges are more common on older, uneven roofs; cut ridges suit a crisp, well-maintained roof.

To finish a ridge, the thatcher lays long straw along the apex, securing it with spars driven into the underlying courses. The straw is then trimmed with a sheep shears or a sharp knife, following the line of the roof. In Devon, many ridges are decorated with a pattern — a scalloped or diamond-shaped arrangement of straw, sometimes called a “Dartmoor” or “butterfly” pattern. This is not mere decoration; it helps the ridge shed water and adds strength.

The final touch is the ligger — a long, twisted straw rope that runs along the ridge and is pinned with spars. It compresses the straw and gives a clean, finished edge. A well-made ridge can last twenty years or more, even in Devon’s wind and rain.

Tools, Timing and Weather

Thatching is weather-dependent. Straw must be dry when laid, and the thatcher watches the sky constantly. A sudden shower can ruin a day’s work. The best time for repair is late spring or early autumn, when the straw is supple and the weather is settled. Winter repairs are possible but miserable; summer repairs can bake the straw brittle.

• Essential tools: leggett, sway, broach, handbeater, sheep shears, spar knife, and a good ladder.
• Safety: netting and scaffolding are standard on steep pitches. Never work alone on a roof.
• Timing: a small patch may take a day; a full ridge can take three or four.

A skilled thatcher will also check the chimney, flashings, and eaves while up there. Small faults caught early save major repairs later.

Keeping a Repaired Roof Sound

After the repair, the roof needs gentle care. Avoid pressure-washing thatch — it forces water into the straw. Keep trees and ivy away, as they trap damp and shade the roof. Check the ridge after winter storms; a loose spar can be tapped back with a mallet. Most importantly, let the thatch breathe. A Devon roof is not a sealed membrane; it is a woven, living thing. Treat it with respect, and a good repair will serve for decades, keeping the cottage warm, dry, and unmistakably part of the countryside.